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BORDEAUX
FIRST GROWTH - 5 CHATEAUX
Bordeaux is one of the most important winemaking region in France producing about 30% of all French wine.
In fact , Bordeaux reputation is legendary as home to some of France’s most famous red wines, crafted at historic Chateaux, or wine estates.
But Bordeaux is also the home to plenty of affordable wines too.
The region produces also a good amount of crisp dry white wines and famous sweet white wines .
Located near the Atlantic coast in southwest France about 300 miles south west of Paris Bordeaux is a region geographically dominated by its rivers, the Garonne and the Dordogne which meet to become the broad Gironde.
THE REGION
Bordeaux is comprised of 57 AOC designations [ regulations and minimal requirements for each wine producing region in France]
70% of Bordeaux is AOC quality, which is high because all together only 35% of all French winesare AOC registered.
The 4 more important to remember are
Medoc [ produces only red wines]
Pomerol [ produces only red wines]
Graves/Pessac Leognan [ produces both red and dry whites]
St Emilion [produces only red wines]
Within the Medoc however they are seven more important AOC “subregions” to remember.
Haut medoc
St Estephe
Pauillac
St Julien
Margaux
Moulis
Listrac
THE GRAPES
Bordeaux wines are almost always made by blending grape varieties.
The three most important grapes for the Bordeaux are:
Ÿ Cabernet sauvignon giving vigor, tanins and long life
Ÿ Merlot , giving softness and suppleness
Ÿ Cabernet franc for vigor and tannins
If you do not like a lot of tannins try the wines with more merlot grapes or just plain merlot, like the Bordeau St Emillion” Couvent des Jacobins” .The three most important grapes for white Bordeaux are
Ÿ Sauvignon blanc [for crisp , refreshing and aromatic wines]
Ÿ Semillon, [often blended with Sauvignon Blanc to produce lively dry white wines]
Ÿ Muscadelle [is almost always used in blends with Sauvignon blanc and Semillon]
LABELS
Bordeaux’s quality levels can be gauged quite easily if you know how the AOC classifies quality.
As usual the more specific the information on the label the higher the quality and price.
In ascending order they are
Bordeaux can be made anywhere in the area
District meaning it is made in a specific sub-region, such as Medoc or
St Emilion
Commune village producing wine of such distinction, they are entitled to appellation: Margaux or Pauillac by example
Chateau meaning it’s made at a specific estate within a specific region
If you haven’t already overheard someone talking about Bordeaux in terms of fist growth and second growths trust me you will and they’ll probably be very smug about it too.
Without getting too technical there was an Exposition in the Medoc in 1855 at which time a wine classification was established under the orders of Napoleon III who was Emperor at that time, to showcase France’s best.
It was hardly thorough and some would even say it was highly arbitrary.
The brokers who agreed to rank the wines created a list of the 61 of the best Medoc wines and divided them into 5 “crus” or categories .
They did not classify St Emilion because at the time it was not in the “fashionable district”
Though the results today are highly contested, those Chateau at the top enjoy status akin to Royalty, as they are considered the best amongst 8.000 other Chateaux..........!
Of these 61 however the first 5 “First Growth” are the ones you only need to memorize.
9 elevated from a second growth in 1973, the only change ever made to the classification since 1855.
Bordeaux most famous white wine
While both, Graves and the Entre Deux Mers areas of Bordeaux produce fresh, fruity and dry whites wines made by blending the Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon the most famous Bordeaux white of all comes from the Sauternes district in the Southern reaches of the region.
This unique , luscious golden sweet wine, among the greatest dessert wines in the world is made by leaving the grapes on the vine beyond the original harvest time.
A combination of fog, humidity, and sunshine encourages the mold Botrytis cinerea to develop.
Called pourriture noble or “noble rot” this mold shrivels the grapes and dehydrates them so that their sugar is highly concentrated.
The grapes are picked as they are ready, which means the workers must go through the field as many as 6 times during the harvest.
The main Sauternes house is Chateau d’Yquem, the next one is Chateau de la Tour Blanche, impeccable with the Foie Gras.
If you have heard about ice wine it is also a sweet wine but using another method, they wait until after frost to pick the grapes.
The wines we tasted
Sauternes 1996 La Tour Blanche, 1er cru classe and rated the finest Sauternes property after Chateau d’Yquem. Perfect with Foie Gras- Blue cheeses - Desserts
Lightly golden color, with coconut, pears, orange and pinapple, very mellow and elegant.
1996 was the best millesime since 1990 it will be good until 2015 with a 17/20 rate
but 2001 has a 19/20 rate
If well cellared this wine will keep for decades
$25 for 1/2 bottle
Medoc- Haut Medoc Pauillac 1997 Chateau La Fleur Peyrabon, one in 6 Cru Bourgeois wines in Pauillac. Great with Lamb
50% Cabernet sauvignon - 26% merlot - 1% petit verdot - 23% cabernet franc
Powerfull cedary aromas - Lovely weight of rich ripe fruit. Very long and delicious.
This one is a keeper if you like it 2000 was a great year $24
St Emilion 1998 Couvent des Jacobins, Grand cru Classe Red meats and games, all meats cooked in red wine - Hard cheeses
70% merlot - 5% cabernet sauvignon - 25% cabernet franc
More mellow and less agressive with the tannins than the young Bordeaux, very supple in the mouth with a lot of fruits. 2000 was a great year $32
Pessac-Leognan 1999 Les Bahans du Chateau Haut Brion,Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
Second wine of a first classified growth - Red meats and game, all meat dishes in sauces
The color is rich and deep. The fragrance a discreet woody note combined with an awareness of tannins makes a striking impression at the start of the tasting. Simultaneously , this structure of rather daunting tannins proves both soft and firm.
They are grainy tannins that delicately spread troughout the mouth. Scent of blackberry and red berries are omnipresent. The completion of the tasting emphasizes once against the tannins simultaneously silky and soft while firm, a typical trait of Haut Brion. To be cellared $36
A second wine contrary to a second growth is picked from the same grapes of the first classified growth after the best grapes have been picked for their first wine.
The second growth is picked from another parcel of the same land than the first growth.
The second wine from Chateau Margaux is Pavillon Rouge
55% cabernet sauvignon - 25% merlot - 25% Cabernet franc
The food we served
Mainly with those red Bordeaux red meat is the right choice.
With the Sauternes a Mousse of Foie Gras in Sauternes with a Sauternes gelee and some thin slices of toasted white bread.
Rack of lamb
Grilled filet
Green french beans, 8 minutes, a couple of sauteed shallots, lots of parsley and pepper and salt to taste.
Tomatoes
Cut in half at 400 for an hour, sprinkled with olive oil, pepper and salt ,garlic and fresh parsley and basil just before serving or topped with the Lamb mixture.
If you cover them with the mixture put an aluminium foil on top so the topping will not burn before the tomatoes are cooked .
FIRST GROWTH - 5 CHATEAUX